![]() I like a non-directional tire too so I can rotate them in the X- pattern I have always done before. I need a tire that wears well, drives smooth, sticks in the corners on a mildly sporty drive, and will get me home if a surprise light snow hits me when at work. I drive the Miata year around except drive my 4x4 truck when the deeper snow hits. I mainly use my Miata for commuting to work, and occasional sporty drives on the weekends with my club. I am seriously considering the Goodyear Eagle GT A/S tires next when my OEM tires wear out. The fact that the installer damaged all of the $2000 set of wheels, which didn't have a blemish on them before, is a whole 'nother story! I haven't found any variation around the tire with a given groove. So, that problem obscures any caused by the tread depth variation. I never had this problem with the original tires even though they hadn't been rebalanced a single time when they were removed at about 25K miles. Unfortunately, when The Tire Rack-recommended-installer balanced the new tires, I believe some of the weights came off, causing the steering wheel to shake badly at about 60 mph. I wouldn't buy them on purpose because they're way too proud of 'em - you can get a lot better bang for you buck these days. My '95 Z28 came with Eagle GS-Cs and they were toast in about 20K miles. When they wear out, then get something else.Īs for Goodyear in general, they came on a couple of cars I've owned, and I wasn't terribly impressed. ![]() Do they run smoothly? Does the car drive straight? If the tires are fine otherwise, I'd say you're just being far too picky. I'd be way more worried if the depth varied at different points around the circumference of the tire. I record a reading of a little less than 9/32nds as 9-minus, or 9-plus if it's slightly over 9. With the type depth gauge I have, I don't try to quantitatively estimate the depth when it's between two 32nd marks. The depths on the factory tires for the NC were all a little less than 9/32nds when they were new, but were consistent across the tread.Same with the GTO factory tires.All were 9/32nds when the tires were new. I haven't encountered any new tires that didn't have a consistent tread depth before. Why not get one of those and take some more accurate readings? They read to 0.001" and are not expensive. I use digital calipers that have a plunge type depth gauge on the end opposite the calipers. Is it possible the tread depth is actually 9.5/32"? That's getting close to spec. The gauge you are using is going to be hard to read better than 1/32". You say the spec is 10/32" and you measured 9/32". However as you go towards the shoulder it drops off a little. Sakura grabs the third spot with its digital/analogue combo.I also carefully measure tread depth, and on new tires it is always close to spec. The latest Sealey digital unit clinches the top spot, but proving analogue still has its place the PCL kit takes a creditable second. Finally, we went through the instructions, looking for detailed information, including the legalities of tread depth and width, plus advice on checking tyres when cool. We also marked the scales, and wanted to see a case, as well as easy access to the tyre valves. We checked the tread-depth tools against an MoT-approved gauge on a part-worn car tyre and a motorcycle tyre, and we tested the pressure element against a calibrated gauge at 20 and 30psi on both. To find the best way to look after yours, we tried a range of solutions. Using a combined pressure and tread depth (DTG) gauge – or a kit containing both – is the simplest way to keep track of tyres. ![]() It could also cost you more than that because under-inflated tyres use more fuel and adversely affect your car’s braking and cornering.
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